How to Lino Block Print on Fabric

How to Lino Block Print on Fabric

Skullblocktest

I minored in printmaking in college, though my focus was more on printing on paper.  Recently I really wanted to learn to print my own textiles so I could make my own shirts, bags, napkins, whatever!

If you have any experience printing on paper, its basically the same but fabric can be a little tempermental.  Depending on if it's 100% cotton, a poly cotton blend, thick duck cotton or straight poly/manmade materials, I've found different pre-saturating the fabric with water can make or break a print  But I'm getting ahead of myself.  Let's start with the basics.

Supplies:

*Ink plate/bench hook-a metal hooked plate you use to spread and mix your ink on.

*Fabric ink-I use Speedball Lino block Fabric Ink which is oil based, but cleans up with soap and water. Comes in a variety of basic colors. I’ve seen some people have success with Speedball silk screening ink, but I find the Lino Block Fabric ink has better opacity and prints more clearly.

*Soft rubber brayer (roller)-for mixing ink and applying to your block

*A Baren-a circular printing tool for hand pressing your image onto your fabric

* A prepared lino block

*Fabric

inking block

INKING YOUR BLOCK

Open your ink and spread a thin line going across the top half of your bench plate (make sure the bench plate is securely hooked on the edge of your table to keep it from moving around.) Use less then you think you’ll need-its always better to under ink, than to over ink because you can always add more ink.

Take your roller and start working the ink-start at the top of the plate and roll it down repeatedly, checking to see if the whole roller is getting covered. The ink should become tacky on the plate, and that means you're ready to ink your block.

I find it best to roll in one direction to ensure complete coverage on the block. Start at the bottom and roll your way to the top. Lift and tilt your block in the light and make sure you have even and total coverage. The ink will make the surface shiny so if you see any dull spots, re-roll that area.

Since this is the first print on the block, I find it best to do a quick test print first. Its like a cast iron pan, the first print "seasons" the block and makes subsequent prints much more clear. Place the block on some scrap paper, flip it over and just quickly press you baren over the surface of the paper.

Re-ink the block. You may have to add a little more ink to the plate, but don't load the block with ink. If you apply the ink too thickly, it will ruin any detail work on your carved block. I also spray the ink on the benchplate with one misting from a water bottle, and roll it into the ink. You don't want it too wet, otherwise it won't become too soupy and wont print rigth. Ideally the ink will have a tacky consistency, like thinly spread peanut butter.

printingtheblock

PRINTING

For this example I used a poly cotton blend white scarf with my Momento Mori Block in black ink. Speedball doesn't recommend printing on 100% man-made materials, but I've had good results on the mix blends.

I eyeball my patterns because I like the handmade quality a less organized pattern presents. You can also use a t-square ruler and pencil to plan out your design to start if you're new to pattern printing.

Place the block face side down on your fabric. I place a piece of newsprint paper right up against the block to prepare for flipping the block over. The paper protects your fabric from any stray ink marks from the other prints in the pattern. Nothing sucks more than to spend an hour or more of your day printing something just to ruin it in the last few steps.

After placing the block take your baren and push down on the block. I start in the lower right corner and go up, working my way across the surface of the block to make sure I have hit every section. I use primarily linoblocks mounted on particle board, so the back had a smooth surface and is easy to print. I’ve recently tried using the Speedball easy cut blocks, which are not mounted. While the back of these are smooth, the material sticks to the baren and will shift the print. In this cases, I place a scrap bit of paper on the back to keep it in place while printing.

FLIPPING IT OVER

This is where things can go south easily, if there's any shift between the fabric and the block it will smudge the print and there's not much you can do about it. If you're working on a big piece of fabric, gather up the excess towards the edge of the block. Lift the edge closest to you slowly. I like to slide my hand under the block to keep the fabric tight against the surface. The ink will also stick to the fabric, making the flip a little easier.

Lay the block down so its facing up and straighten out the fabric. Take your baren and really put some pressure on it by leaning your weight on your printing arm. Start in one corner and work your away across the block in section to make sure you cover the entire surface. If the fabric is thin enough you'll be able to see an impression of print coming through.

This step isn't always necessary, though I do find you get clearer, crispier prints this way.

Now you simply peel the fabric off the block and you're ready to dry it! This will take about 48 hours, but its good to give it up to a week to completely dry it out.  you can launder your prints easily in the wash, though if Im washing t-shirts or other garments I like to turn everything inside out before washing.

 

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